Everything you need to know about the TAZARA Train

The TAZARA train runs from Kapiri, Central Province, Zambia, to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I have taken it three times, twice from Kasama, Northern Province, Zambia to Dar, and once the opposite way. It’s about a three day train ride, and not terribly comfortable, but I 100% recommend it if you have the chance. The bathrooms get more gross as the train goes on, but the food is good and views, incredible. If you’re going with friends its like one long sleepover, but even if you’re traveling alone it is safe, and you have the opportunity to meet some really cool people. You’ll become very familiar with the people you’re traveling with. There is an express train and a regular train. Each run twice a week.

The Express train leaves Kapiri on Tuesdays, gets to Kasama at around 1am on Wednesday, and we arrived in Dar es Salaam Thursday evening. There are timetables online at tazarasite.com but honestly, both trains will be late, the regular train will be more late, you just have to figure that into your plans. Like if you’re leaving from Kasama, get to the station at 12:45am, but be prepared to sit there until possibly 3am or 4am. The Express train is newer so its also more likely that the fans and outlets will work on the train, but with all land travel, don’t expect anything. Bring batter chargers for your phone, and tank tops to stay cool. When I took the express in October first class was 236 Zambian Kwacha and second class was 188 Zambian Kwacha. SUPER cheap for a few days on a train. Highly recommend first class. I’ve ridden second class too, and while you get a bed, there are six in the cabin and it is like laying in a coffin. First class is 4 beds per room, with more storage space, and less smelly.

The Ordinary train leaves Kapiri on Fridays, reaches Kasama at around 4-7am on Saturday, and gets to Dar es Salaam on Monday. This train is usually more late than the Express as regards to the online time table. I suggest booking a hotel room for Monday in Dar just in case, but there’s a chance you won’t get into the city until early Tuesday morning. First class is 197 Zambian Kwacha.

Along the way you’ll get beautiful views of the Zambian and Tanzanian countryside. Truly breathtaking. I was sad when it was dark because I couldn’t see the views. In Tanzania toward the end of the ride you go through a National Park, and if you’re lucky enough to go through during the day time you might see some animals.

As far as food, I suggest bringing a bag of snacks and water on the train with you, but you can always buy meals on the train. The food is actually pretty decent. But you need cash. On the Zambian side you need Kwacha and on the Tanzanian side you need shillings. No exception. At the border, the staff, currency, and food, all change and if you don’t have shillings after crossing the border, you’re not getting any food. Luckily there will be money exchange people at the border, but I can assure you they won’t give you a fair exchange rate. But get enough for food on the train, and a taxi ride in Dar to an ATM.

So VISAAt the border the train will stop at a border patrol place on each side. So if you’re going from Zambia to Tanzania, the train will stop in Zambia, and officers will get on and go cabin to cabin and check passports and visas and stamp that you are leaving the country. Then the train will go another hundred feet and stop again. TZ officers will get on and check passports, ask you to fill out visa paperwork, ask for the visa fee, which for TZ is $100 USD that you have to have exact on, and some officers even made a fuss about the bills being newer than 2011, so make sure that is all prepared BEFORE you get on the train. They threatened to throw my friend off the train because she had an $100 bill from 2009. If everything is in order they will stamp your passport and you’ll be good to go. There will also be people going around on the train for people to exchange money, and to buy SIM cards (for you phone) and talk time (minutes). I would buy a SIM card and a talk time just for emergencies for the remainder of your ride, but I wouldn’t put a lot of money on the card, and buy a new one when you get to Dar from an authorized dealer. The card I bought, as well as the Tanzanian lady in the car with me bought, both started stealing our talk time as soon as we entered it. Obviously the card was being double sold so someone could take our money. Before buying a SIM card make sure it doesn’t look like its been used before, i.e. the card is punched out of the holder, or theres strange writing all over it.

Feel free to message me, or check out their website here if you still have questions. Like I said, I absolutely recommend taking the train if you have time. The adventure of it was just as exciting as most of my trip.

Crossroads Lodge – Solwezi

So this is one of those lodges I haven’t stayed at myself, but I have been there a few times to book rooms for my friends. It’s one of the more “upscale” lodges in Solwezi. It was wifi and a beautiful pool area. The hotel overlooks a colorful valley. The customer service is great, the only downside I’d say is that it is quite a ways outside of town, so if you’re planning on going back and forth a lot the taxi bills are going to add up. The cheapest room is 550kwa, then 750, and 800. I think there is some deluxe premium suite (or something equally as fancy) for more too.

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Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls is the number one must see if you come to Zambia. It is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Entering the park on the Zambian side is about 7 kwacha for locals and about $10-20 for foreigners. There are curio shops, and little cafés right inside the entrance. As you’re walking through the park there are three trails… well four really. One goes up by the river before the falls, depending on the time of year is how far this trail goes. The main trail goes right in front of the falls, during high season you get SOAKED. Do not bring phones or electronics on this path, my friend lost his new iphone this way. They also sell rain coats and other bags to wear to stay dry but I think its such an amazing experience to just get soaked by the falls and to feel the mist hitting you. But I realize that experience is not for everyone. This path also leads to a bridge right in front of the falls, walk slowly as it is slippery when wet. It leads to an island/mountain/hill where you can get views of the Zimbabwe side of the falls, and the walkways on the Zimbabwe side. The second trail is more of a hike. It goes straight down into the first gorge to what is called the boiling point. From the bottom you can see where all the water from the falls comes together to push through a small opening. Seeing the strength of the water is truly incredible. Hiking this trail takes about 40 minutes each way. Bring water, and take breaks if needed. The third trail goes along the back of the gorge for more of a distance view of the falls. You also get a nice view of the bridge here, the one the first trail goes over, as well as the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Beware, we got to the end of the trail and there were men reaching through the fence trying to sell us bracelets, and to get us to come on a tour, it was a little creepy, so we just walked away. Another warning, on the boiling pot trail, and the last trail I discussed there are a lot of monkeys (baboons? Some sort of primate). They are known for steaking things from tourists, they’re definitely not afraid of people. DO NOT bring shop rite bags on the trail! The monkeys know that they contain food and they will be stolen from you. Hold on to your passport and wallet well when on this trail. The trails here are also not like those in America where there is a guard rail to keep you from falling off the edge of a cliff. You will fall off if you get to close to the edge and slip. I was trying to get a picture near the edge and slipped on the loose gravel and realized how easily I could have slid farther. Be careful and use common sense. The falls are highest in March-June, and lowest in October-January. High or low it is still incredible to see, it’s one of the 7 natural wonders of the earth and the pride of Zambia.

Mutanda Falls

A nice day trip from Solwezi is going swimming at Mutanda Falls.  You can get to Mutanda Lodge (not Mutanda Nature Lodge), either by hitching out of Solwezi (best place to start is after Chowama market), or taking a taxi if you have money or can split it with people. At the Lodge there is a place to swim in the water, you’ll need to pay about 20kwa to be allowed to do so, or hang out in the nsakas by the water. Keep in mind that as rain season starts to pick up the water might be too strong to swim in. Rain season starts in October and goes until about April. I would think August/September would be the best time, although I went in April/May and it was pretty good. They also sell food at the lodge but I can’t attest to how good it is. Mutanda Falls isn’t very big compared to other falls in Zambia but its still a nice and relaxing outing nonetheless.

Mutanda Lodge is the yellow pin in the map below, the orange road going of the top of the picture goes to Solwezi.

Mutanda Lodge

Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve

Going here was a nice, cheap, day trip from our lodge in Nkhata bay. We met our tour guide at the lodge. Normally I’d advise against just spur-of-the-moment going with the first tour guide who approaches you. It could have very easily been a fraud. But, lucky for us he turned out to be a somewhat decent guy. He picked us up from the lodge in the morning and drove us to the park. We got stuck in a giant puddle on the way and the driver needed to pay some people to help push us out. The park had beautiful scenery. Malawi is beautiful in general, but there was something special about this place. We saw one elephant, some monkeys, some deer-like creatures and hundreds of Hippos. We saw one hippo walking through the woods. I never realized how truly big hippos were until I saw this one! I thought I was in Jurassic park or something. We spotted about a hundred hippos in the lake. We got out of the car and started walking towards them. We were able to get pretty close. Our guide got closer and seemed very excited but my friend and I stopped when they looked at us and started standing up. I know I can’t outrun a hippo. We ate lunch overlooking a beautiful valley, drove around a bit more but didn’t see anything and started back. Now I would say you should go to this park if you love hippos.. but the road leading up to the park we saw a few people carrying pieces of hippo meat that had been poached. Our wonderful tour guide even stopped to see if he could buy some, and that’s when I saw a giant hippo graveyard. So the park I wouldn’t give the highest review for conservation, or variety in animal population (as it was mostly hippos). Our guide was very enthusiastic, cheap, and friendly, but his enthusiasm at buying poached hippo meat threw me off a bit. It was a nice change of pace, and a chance to leave the lodge and see more of Malawi though. I’d recommend going to Vwaza if you’re in the area, catch a nice deal, and don’t have the biggest problem with hippo poaching.

Vwaza Wildlife Reserve

Cresta Mowana Lodge

This lodge is built around a giant Baobab tree, and is right on the Chobe River, north of Chobe National Park. All the rooms have balconies with beautiful views. You can even spot some warthogs running around. This lodge was paid for me by family that was visiting, but I’m guessing the prices are pretty steep (you can check their website below). The rooms are comfortable. They have mosquito nets, a shower, and a tub with hot water. The staff are very helpful and friendly. The lodge has a log cabin feel with thatched roofs. There is a real nice pool and balcony bar area. There is a gift shop, but everything seemed very expensive. The dining area was beautiful and the food was amazing. It is buffet style and offers different game meat every night for you to try out. The only thing I wouldn’t give 5 stars to was the spa. I only got a massage but it was very painful (although that could have been because my back was so bad), and she started massaging areas I asked her not to. But I would definitely recommend this Lodge to anyone who is visiting the northern part of Chobe park, has the money and wants to splurge on a real nice place.

http://www.crestamowana.com

Cresta Mowana Map