Everything you need to know about the TAZARA Train

The TAZARA train runs from Kapiri, Central Province, Zambia, to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I have taken it three times, twice from Kasama, Northern Province, Zambia to Dar, and once the opposite way. It’s about a three day train ride, and not terribly comfortable, but I 100% recommend it if you have the chance. The bathrooms get more gross as the train goes on, but the food is good and views, incredible. If you’re going with friends its like one long sleepover, but even if you’re traveling alone it is safe, and you have the opportunity to meet some really cool people. You’ll become very familiar with the people you’re traveling with. There is an express train and a regular train. Each run twice a week.

The Express train leaves Kapiri on Tuesdays, gets to Kasama at around 1am on Wednesday, and we arrived in Dar es Salaam Thursday evening. There are timetables online at tazarasite.com but honestly, both trains will be late, the regular train will be more late, you just have to figure that into your plans. Like if you’re leaving from Kasama, get to the station at 12:45am, but be prepared to sit there until possibly 3am or 4am. The Express train is newer so its also more likely that the fans and outlets will work on the train, but with all land travel, don’t expect anything. Bring batter chargers for your phone, and tank tops to stay cool. When I took the express in October first class was 236 Zambian Kwacha and second class was 188 Zambian Kwacha. SUPER cheap for a few days on a train. Highly recommend first class. I’ve ridden second class too, and while you get a bed, there are six in the cabin and it is like laying in a coffin. First class is 4 beds per room, with more storage space, and less smelly.

The Ordinary train leaves Kapiri on Fridays, reaches Kasama at around 4-7am on Saturday, and gets to Dar es Salaam on Monday. This train is usually more late than the Express as regards to the online time table. I suggest booking a hotel room for Monday in Dar just in case, but there’s a chance you won’t get into the city until early Tuesday morning. First class is 197 Zambian Kwacha.

Along the way you’ll get beautiful views of the Zambian and Tanzanian countryside. Truly breathtaking. I was sad when it was dark because I couldn’t see the views. In Tanzania toward the end of the ride you go through a National Park, and if you’re lucky enough to go through during the day time you might see some animals.

As far as food, I suggest bringing a bag of snacks and water on the train with you, but you can always buy meals on the train. The food is actually pretty decent. But you need cash. On the Zambian side you need Kwacha and on the Tanzanian side you need shillings. No exception. At the border, the staff, currency, and food, all change and if you don’t have shillings after crossing the border, you’re not getting any food. Luckily there will be money exchange people at the border, but I can assure you they won’t give you a fair exchange rate. But get enough for food on the train, and a taxi ride in Dar to an ATM.

So VISAAt the border the train will stop at a border patrol place on each side. So if you’re going from Zambia to Tanzania, the train will stop in Zambia, and officers will get on and go cabin to cabin and check passports and visas and stamp that you are leaving the country. Then the train will go another hundred feet and stop again. TZ officers will get on and check passports, ask you to fill out visa paperwork, ask for the visa fee, which for TZ is $100 USD that you have to have exact on, and some officers even made a fuss about the bills being newer than 2011, so make sure that is all prepared BEFORE you get on the train. They threatened to throw my friend off the train because she had an $100 bill from 2009. If everything is in order they will stamp your passport and you’ll be good to go. There will also be people going around on the train for people to exchange money, and to buy SIM cards (for you phone) and talk time (minutes). I would buy a SIM card and a talk time just for emergencies for the remainder of your ride, but I wouldn’t put a lot of money on the card, and buy a new one when you get to Dar from an authorized dealer. The card I bought, as well as the Tanzanian lady in the car with me bought, both started stealing our talk time as soon as we entered it. Obviously the card was being double sold so someone could take our money. Before buying a SIM card make sure it doesn’t look like its been used before, i.e. the card is punched out of the holder, or theres strange writing all over it.

Feel free to message me, or check out their website here if you still have questions. Like I said, I absolutely recommend taking the train if you have time. The adventure of it was just as exciting as most of my trip.

Eastern – South Luangwa Park

South Luangwa National Park was my first safari I’ve ever been on. We got a Peace Corps discount and stayed at Croc Valley in the dorms. It was a real nice place. The rooves were thatched, and it had a cool insaka (thatched shelter) you can hang out in. The lodge was right on the river, and you can hear the hippos at night. We got in late but the place had food ready for us in anticipation of our arrival. The food was so good! Three courses! Definitely more than we were picturing. The next morning we woke early and did a morning game drive. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras, hyenas, and hippos. In our evening game drive we saw the same, and even spotted a leopard! It got so close to our car. I felt a little uncomfortable though because there were about 5 cars following the leopard around with high beams on all trying to get a look. The leopard seemed a little scared. All in all though I recommend Croc Valley. South Luangwa is a beautiful park FILLED with animals.

Chishimba Falls

If you’re in Kasama I would definitely try to reserve a day for a day trip, or even a camping overnight trip to Chishimba falls. It’s not too expensive to get in, maybe $10 for non residents, I’m not quite positive as I got in for 8kwa on a work permit. There’s three falls. When you first enter is the smallest fall, there is a picnic area, a swimming area, people selling curios, and a place to order food and beers. You can also bring food and charcoal and use the grills. Then there’s a short hike to the upper falls and a little longer hike to the main lower falls. The lower falls are a beautiful site no matter the time of year. During dry season you can swim at the top of the falls (at your own risk) but I wouldn’t recommend swimming there during rain season, you’ll get swept off the edge and there’s no coming back. The falls are tall and you can stand at the edge and see for miles into the valley. If you’re interested in camping I don’t think its more than $20 for non residents. Bring your own tents and sleeping bags. There is an insaka/shelteroverlooking the lower falls on the edge of the cliff, try to snag that spot if you can. Its unbelievable falling asleep under the galaxies and hearing the roar of the fall all night. The only thing is the bathroom is back at the entrance near the bar so try to go before it gets dark, and hold it til light in the morning. It’s safe, but not fun to hike all the way back in the dark, and its not nice to go number 2 in a public space. Really the only way to get to the falls is with a taxi which is a bummer. So if you can try to find other people to share it with. I guess you can try hitching, you’ll be able to find a ride out of town easy enough, but finding someone going from the turn off to the falls might take a while, and it would be a long walk.

Chishimba.png

Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve

Going here was a nice, cheap, day trip from our lodge in Nkhata bay. We met our tour guide at the lodge. Normally I’d advise against just spur-of-the-moment going with the first tour guide who approaches you. It could have very easily been a fraud. But, lucky for us he turned out to be a somewhat decent guy. He picked us up from the lodge in the morning and drove us to the park. We got stuck in a giant puddle on the way and the driver needed to pay some people to help push us out. The park had beautiful scenery. Malawi is beautiful in general, but there was something special about this place. We saw one elephant, some monkeys, some deer-like creatures and hundreds of Hippos. We saw one hippo walking through the woods. I never realized how truly big hippos were until I saw this one! I thought I was in Jurassic park or something. We spotted about a hundred hippos in the lake. We got out of the car and started walking towards them. We were able to get pretty close. Our guide got closer and seemed very excited but my friend and I stopped when they looked at us and started standing up. I know I can’t outrun a hippo. We ate lunch overlooking a beautiful valley, drove around a bit more but didn’t see anything and started back. Now I would say you should go to this park if you love hippos.. but the road leading up to the park we saw a few people carrying pieces of hippo meat that had been poached. Our wonderful tour guide even stopped to see if he could buy some, and that’s when I saw a giant hippo graveyard. So the park I wouldn’t give the highest review for conservation, or variety in animal population (as it was mostly hippos). Our guide was very enthusiastic, cheap, and friendly, but his enthusiasm at buying poached hippo meat threw me off a bit. It was a nice change of pace, and a chance to leave the lodge and see more of Malawi though. I’d recommend going to Vwaza if you’re in the area, catch a nice deal, and don’t have the biggest problem with hippo poaching.

Vwaza Wildlife Reserve

Chobe Park

We did three game drives through Northern Chobe; two morning drives and one afternoon drive. The park is so beautiful. We went in October, and even though it was dry season there was still plenty of life around the park, and water in the river. We saw elephants, kudu, antelope, monkeys, giraffe, zebras, hippos, a ton of birds, and even some lions. The guides we had from the lodge were very knowledgeable and friendly, and I felt they really respected the animals and their habitats.

ChobeNationalPark

Malawi – December 2015

Malawi is a small but very beautiful country. It is filled with rolling hills covered with beautiful farms. Lake Malawi is HUGE, and filled with beautiful turquoise-blue water. The lake is a great destination for scuba diving. A few of my friends got scuba certified while we were there. When we went they recently raised the US visa to around $80, about double of what it was a few months earlier. We thought that was pretty steep for such a small country, seeing that Zambia next door was $50, and it has a number of famous waterfalls and national parks. BUT we paid it. I was traveling in December with a group of 28 Peace Corps Volunteers. That means we travel cheap. We stayed the night in Lundazi, Zambia near the border and arranged for us to ride on the back of a cantor from Lundazi, across the border, all the way North to Mzuzu. Crossing the border was easy, but at the time they couldn’t issue visas at the border so we were instructed to go straight to immigration in Mzuzu. We made it there alright. Immigration was so slow. Granted we were 28 Americans trying to get tourist visas, but the staff was busy watching a football game. We did alright. I heard that a second group of volunteers that came by a week later were sent away and told to come back the next day, which was a pain. Getting around Malawi is very basic, you take a minibus. We bought out a minibus to take us back a little south to Nkhata bay. I loved my week and a half in Malawi. I feel like I saw enough, and had enough of the transport that I don’t need to go back again. Malawi