Lake Tanganyika

I don’t have too much useful things to say about Lake Tanganyika. It’s easy enough to hitch to Mpulungu, the town that lays next to the lake. Or you can take a bus, but we started by the side of the Kasama-Mbala Road. They dropped us at the turnoff, one road goes to Mbala, the other to Mpulungu. That wasn’t too hard to find another hitch the rest of the way to Mpulungu. It’s a nice town. I heard the fish market was pretty big but I didn’t see it. I took a b-line to an ice cream place. We stayed at a lodge I will talk about in the lodges section of Zambia, that was right across from the lake and a bar. We went to the lake-side bar to hang out and get dinner. It had beautiful views, although you cant swim because there’s crocs. We ended up staying at an school run by the Dutch across the lake called Eventure, because they knew some friends of ours. It’s a really cool place, not a place for vacation though. They had volunteers working there that seemed busy and I felt like we were just mooching off their space. I would check out Luke’s beach if you’re looking for a place to go. I’ve never been there but I’ve had a lot of friends who have, and I know Luke. It’s a nice quiet place on the water where you can set up tents, bring your own food to cook because I’m not sure if they sell food there. And I understand it’s a nice hike down to the water. So maybe not for someone looking for a nice, fancy, lake, vacation, but good for backpackers looking for an adventure and experience and somewhere to swim and hang out on a beach.

Tang.png

One Love Cafe and Art Gallery

Kelvin, the owner, is a fantastic Rasta man committed to making his guests comfortable and have fun. His place is located within a 5 minute walk of Mayoka Village towards town. This great little café is on a porch that overlooks the lake. He has great tea, and a variety of food. I suggest the banana pancakes, I could eat those all day. Outside the café Kelvin sells artwork (paintings, carvings, jewelry etc) made by him and his friends. It’s a great place to hang out or to buy souvenirs as he will negotiate a price with you but wont be as pushy as some of the vendors next door. When I was there in 2015, he was also talking about staring his own lodge on the hillside, so that might be finished by now, I would like to try staying there if I returned to Nkhata Bay

Mayoka Village – Nkhata Bay

I absolutely loved this place. It’s a little haven away from reality. The prices were great. Accomodations range from camping, to dorms, to private chalets. I stayed in a chalet for most of the trip, and then switched to the dorms for the last few days. The chalets are clean, with mosquito nets and fans. Our chalet had a beautiful wrap around porch, outdoor shower, and a nice indoor one too. The dorms are clean as well, and I felt safe keeping my belongings on my bed. There is a nice outdoor shared shower and a compost toilet for those of you that are eco friendly. Everywhere you go on this compound overlooks the bright blue lake. It is on the edge of a cliff, there are a lot of stairs so this place definitely isn’t wheelchair friendly, or “I have bad knees” friendly. It’s a good workout though. They have different dinners scheduled every night for decent prices. There were other travelers coming in and out all week, so it was a great place to meet people. The owner was very friendly and helpful, I suggest getting to know him and his family, they have a ton of interesting stories and advice. As far as the lake, Mayoka has kayaks for guests to use, a raft out on the lake, and they occasionally do boat trips out to a cliff that, if you’re brave enough, you can jump off of into the lake. Occasionally you’ll see a monitor lizard, they live among the rocks, but they try to stay out of your way. Everything you buy here is put on a tab. You can pay off your tab in Malawian Kwacha or USD whenever you’d like. Butterfly Space is a lodge right next door and they sometimes have small concerts and art activities going on that you can join in on. I’d recommend going to visit it at least. Mayoka is about a 15 minute walk to town with gorgeous views of the lake the whole way, it also passes through a pretty decent art market. The men will be pushy with getting you to buy their things, but don’t forget to bargain for prices!

http://www.mayokavillagebeachlodge.com

Mayoka Village Map

Malawi – December 2015

Malawi is a small but very beautiful country. It is filled with rolling hills covered with beautiful farms. Lake Malawi is HUGE, and filled with beautiful turquoise-blue water. The lake is a great destination for scuba diving. A few of my friends got scuba certified while we were there. When we went they recently raised the US visa to around $80, about double of what it was a few months earlier. We thought that was pretty steep for such a small country, seeing that Zambia next door was $50, and it has a number of famous waterfalls and national parks. BUT we paid it. I was traveling in December with a group of 28 Peace Corps Volunteers. That means we travel cheap. We stayed the night in Lundazi, Zambia near the border and arranged for us to ride on the back of a cantor from Lundazi, across the border, all the way North to Mzuzu. Crossing the border was easy, but at the time they couldn’t issue visas at the border so we were instructed to go straight to immigration in Mzuzu. We made it there alright. Immigration was so slow. Granted we were 28 Americans trying to get tourist visas, but the staff was busy watching a football game. We did alright. I heard that a second group of volunteers that came by a week later were sent away and told to come back the next day, which was a pain. Getting around Malawi is very basic, you take a minibus. We bought out a minibus to take us back a little south to Nkhata bay. I loved my week and a half in Malawi. I feel like I saw enough, and had enough of the transport that I don’t need to go back again. Malawi