Everything you need to know about the TAZARA Train

The TAZARA train runs from Kapiri, Central Province, Zambia, to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I have taken it three times, twice from Kasama, Northern Province, Zambia to Dar, and once the opposite way. It’s about a three day train ride, and not terribly comfortable, but I 100% recommend it if you have the chance. The bathrooms get more gross as the train goes on, but the food is good and views, incredible. If you’re going with friends its like one long sleepover, but even if you’re traveling alone it is safe, and you have the opportunity to meet some really cool people. You’ll become very familiar with the people you’re traveling with. There is an express train and a regular train. Each run twice a week.

The Express train leaves Kapiri on Tuesdays, gets to Kasama at around 1am on Wednesday, and we arrived in Dar es Salaam Thursday evening. There are timetables online at tazarasite.com but honestly, both trains will be late, the regular train will be more late, you just have to figure that into your plans. Like if you’re leaving from Kasama, get to the station at 12:45am, but be prepared to sit there until possibly 3am or 4am. The Express train is newer so its also more likely that the fans and outlets will work on the train, but with all land travel, don’t expect anything. Bring batter chargers for your phone, and tank tops to stay cool. When I took the express in October first class was 236 Zambian Kwacha and second class was 188 Zambian Kwacha. SUPER cheap for a few days on a train. Highly recommend first class. I’ve ridden second class too, and while you get a bed, there are six in the cabin and it is like laying in a coffin. First class is 4 beds per room, with more storage space, and less smelly.

The Ordinary train leaves Kapiri on Fridays, reaches Kasama at around 4-7am on Saturday, and gets to Dar es Salaam on Monday. This train is usually more late than the Express as regards to the online time table. I suggest booking a hotel room for Monday in Dar just in case, but there’s a chance you won’t get into the city until early Tuesday morning. First class is 197 Zambian Kwacha.

Along the way you’ll get beautiful views of the Zambian and Tanzanian countryside. Truly breathtaking. I was sad when it was dark because I couldn’t see the views. In Tanzania toward the end of the ride you go through a National Park, and if you’re lucky enough to go through during the day time you might see some animals.

As far as food, I suggest bringing a bag of snacks and water on the train with you, but you can always buy meals on the train. The food is actually pretty decent. But you need cash. On the Zambian side you need Kwacha and on the Tanzanian side you need shillings. No exception. At the border, the staff, currency, and food, all change and if you don’t have shillings after crossing the border, you’re not getting any food. Luckily there will be money exchange people at the border, but I can assure you they won’t give you a fair exchange rate. But get enough for food on the train, and a taxi ride in Dar to an ATM.

So VISAAt the border the train will stop at a border patrol place on each side. So if you’re going from Zambia to Tanzania, the train will stop in Zambia, and officers will get on and go cabin to cabin and check passports and visas and stamp that you are leaving the country. Then the train will go another hundred feet and stop again. TZ officers will get on and check passports, ask you to fill out visa paperwork, ask for the visa fee, which for TZ is $100 USD that you have to have exact on, and some officers even made a fuss about the bills being newer than 2011, so make sure that is all prepared BEFORE you get on the train. They threatened to throw my friend off the train because she had an $100 bill from 2009. If everything is in order they will stamp your passport and you’ll be good to go. There will also be people going around on the train for people to exchange money, and to buy SIM cards (for you phone) and talk time (minutes). I would buy a SIM card and a talk time just for emergencies for the remainder of your ride, but I wouldn’t put a lot of money on the card, and buy a new one when you get to Dar from an authorized dealer. The card I bought, as well as the Tanzanian lady in the car with me bought, both started stealing our talk time as soon as we entered it. Obviously the card was being double sold so someone could take our money. Before buying a SIM card make sure it doesn’t look like its been used before, i.e. the card is punched out of the holder, or theres strange writing all over it.

Feel free to message me, or check out their website here if you still have questions. Like I said, I absolutely recommend taking the train if you have time. The adventure of it was just as exciting as most of my trip.

Gorge Swing

I didn’t do the gorge swing myself but two of my friends did and I went along to take photos. There are a number of companies that do swings, ziplines, and bungee jumping along the gorges. We arranged ours through the hostel we were staying at (Fawlty Towers). We were picked up from our lodge and brought to the gorge. My two friends decided to go tandum. If you’re willing to do this or bungee jumping I have SO much respect for you it looks terrifying. They were instructed on all the technical details, strapped in, and fell backwards off the cliff. It was so cool to watch! You get to see beautiful views over the gorge. They swung back and forth about five times and then were lowered into the jungle below where someone was waiting for them, and then they hiked back up to the top, it took about 30 minutes. They absolutely loved it! I think I’ll take their word for it. If you’re a thrill seeker you should definitely put this on your list.

https://zambeziecoadventures.com

Chaminuka Game Drive

We went on an afrternoon game drive with them. It was nice, about an hour. We saw a number of different deer and antelope, and giraffes. We heard another group saw elephants but ours didn’t. Those in the group with me weren’t all that impressed with the enclosures the big cats were kept in. They had lions and cheetahs. We were told they had dozens (hundreds?) of acres to roam, but all we saw were them in a small area. We may have come at a bad time though when they were moved into smaller enclosures for a good reason I don’t know. I’d say if you’re already at Chaminuka for something else than go for it, but I wouldn’t come to Chaminuka specifically for the game drive, there are better parks.

Visit their site for more details: www.chaminuka.com

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Lilayi Elephant Nursery

I’m gonna preface this by saying I did not do the game drive, or see any of the animals, besides the babies in the nursery. I simply went to see the baby elephants. They are SO cute and if you love elephants I would recommend going to see them and spending the afternoon just watching them. That being said, if you have seen elephants before and are not totally “in love” with them, maybe see what else Lilaya has to offer. The part where you see the baby elephants is just a small enclosure that you climb up into a tree house like structure to watch them. They’re very cute, and I’m glad I saw it, but it was an excursion that was given to me for free, I’m not sure I would have gone there on my own otherwise. It’s a little bit of a drive outside of main Lusaka.

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Paintball Mania

So I’m not a huge fan of paintball in general, but I’d still recommend this to anyone with some time to spare looking for something different to do around Lusaka, especially if you’ve got a cool group of friends. Its relatively inexpensive and its fun for you and your friends to go, dress in ridiculous jumpsuits, make teams, and run around an shoot each other. I went with a group of grown women and traded off sessions with a bunch of small boys there for a birthday party. Everyone had a great time. The price is basically 1kwa per paintball. You start with 100. So 100kwa to start (~$10)

Check out the website here for more specifics!

Dutch Market

Located in Kabulonga by Kabulonga boys, at the Dutch Reformed Church, and happens the last Saturday of every month. The entrance fee is between 5-10kwa (~50 cents – $1). I love this market because it has very different things than all the other cultural markets around Zambia. Xpats and Zambians come in from all over Zambia to sell their things and advertise their business. There is great food and drink here from all different cultures and cute hipster things like handmade soaps, jewelry, and candles. If you’re in the area when this is going on I highly recommend going.

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**I regret to inform you the photo above is not mine. I unfortunately don’t have any photos from Lusaka that are worthy of sharing. I got this image off of google, if it is yours let me know and I’ll take it down or give you credit.

Sunday Market

Sunday Market is the perfect place to buy all those overpriced touristy gifts for friends and family back home who can say, “oh my niece brought me this mask back from Zambia for me.” Little does she know that mask is actually a ceremonial fertility mask from Ethiopia or something equally not related to Zambian culture. Its perfect for knick knacks and stuff you can convince yourself you need. I love Sunday market. It’s fun to wander around. It has gotten a lot smaller since they’ve moved it because of the construction at Arcades mall, but you can still get everything you want. It’s now in the fields across from the Protea Hotel at Arcades Mall until they finish construction. My advice? BARGAIN. If you are a foreigner, they will usually tell you about double the price. Don’t feel bad for arguing your way down a bit. If you can speak any of the local language it helps a lot.

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**I regret to inform you the photo above is not mine. I unfortunately don’t have any photos from Lusaka that are worthy of sharing. I got this image off of google, if it is yours let me know and I’ll take it down or give you credit.

Eastern – South Luangwa Park

South Luangwa National Park was my first safari I’ve ever been on. We got a Peace Corps discount and stayed at Croc Valley in the dorms. It was a real nice place. The rooves were thatched, and it had a cool insaka (thatched shelter) you can hang out in. The lodge was right on the river, and you can hear the hippos at night. We got in late but the place had food ready for us in anticipation of our arrival. The food was so good! Three courses! Definitely more than we were picturing. The next morning we woke early and did a morning game drive. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras, hyenas, and hippos. In our evening game drive we saw the same, and even spotted a leopard! It got so close to our car. I felt a little uncomfortable though because there were about 5 cars following the leopard around with high beams on all trying to get a look. The leopard seemed a little scared. All in all though I recommend Croc Valley. South Luangwa is a beautiful park FILLED with animals.

Lake Tanganyika

I don’t have too much useful things to say about Lake Tanganyika. It’s easy enough to hitch to Mpulungu, the town that lays next to the lake. Or you can take a bus, but we started by the side of the Kasama-Mbala Road. They dropped us at the turnoff, one road goes to Mbala, the other to Mpulungu. That wasn’t too hard to find another hitch the rest of the way to Mpulungu. It’s a nice town. I heard the fish market was pretty big but I didn’t see it. I took a b-line to an ice cream place. We stayed at a lodge I will talk about in the lodges section of Zambia, that was right across from the lake and a bar. We went to the lake-side bar to hang out and get dinner. It had beautiful views, although you cant swim because there’s crocs. We ended up staying at an school run by the Dutch across the lake called Eventure, because they knew some friends of ours. It’s a really cool place, not a place for vacation though. They had volunteers working there that seemed busy and I felt like we were just mooching off their space. I would check out Luke’s beach if you’re looking for a place to go. I’ve never been there but I’ve had a lot of friends who have, and I know Luke. It’s a nice quiet place on the water where you can set up tents, bring your own food to cook because I’m not sure if they sell food there. And I understand it’s a nice hike down to the water. So maybe not for someone looking for a nice, fancy, lake, vacation, but good for backpackers looking for an adventure and experience and somewhere to swim and hang out on a beach.

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Chishimba Falls

If you’re in Kasama I would definitely try to reserve a day for a day trip, or even a camping overnight trip to Chishimba falls. It’s not too expensive to get in, maybe $10 for non residents, I’m not quite positive as I got in for 8kwa on a work permit. There’s three falls. When you first enter is the smallest fall, there is a picnic area, a swimming area, people selling curios, and a place to order food and beers. You can also bring food and charcoal and use the grills. Then there’s a short hike to the upper falls and a little longer hike to the main lower falls. The lower falls are a beautiful site no matter the time of year. During dry season you can swim at the top of the falls (at your own risk) but I wouldn’t recommend swimming there during rain season, you’ll get swept off the edge and there’s no coming back. The falls are tall and you can stand at the edge and see for miles into the valley. If you’re interested in camping I don’t think its more than $20 for non residents. Bring your own tents and sleeping bags. There is an insaka/shelteroverlooking the lower falls on the edge of the cliff, try to snag that spot if you can. Its unbelievable falling asleep under the galaxies and hearing the roar of the fall all night. The only thing is the bathroom is back at the entrance near the bar so try to go before it gets dark, and hold it til light in the morning. It’s safe, but not fun to hike all the way back in the dark, and its not nice to go number 2 in a public space. Really the only way to get to the falls is with a taxi which is a bummer. So if you can try to find other people to share it with. I guess you can try hitching, you’ll be able to find a ride out of town easy enough, but finding someone going from the turn off to the falls might take a while, and it would be a long walk.

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