Everything you need to know about the TAZARA Train

On April 1, 2018April 1, 2018 By CheetahTravelsIn UncategorizedLeave a comment

The TAZARA train runs from Kapiri, Central Province, Zambia, to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I have taken it three times, twice from Kasama, Northern Province, Zambia to Dar, and once the opposite way. It’s about a three day train ride, and not terribly comfortable, but I 100% recommend it if you have the chance. The bathrooms get more gross as the train goes on, but the food is good and views, incredible. If you’re going with friends its like one long sleepover, but even if you’re traveling alone it is safe, and you have the opportunity to meet some really cool people. You’ll become very familiar with the people you’re traveling with. There is an express train and a regular train. Each run twice a week.

The Express train leaves Kapiri on Tuesdays, gets to Kasama at around 1am on Wednesday, and we arrived in Dar es Salaam Thursday evening. There are timetables online at tazarasite.com but honestly, both trains will be late, the regular train will be more late, you just have to figure that into your plans. Like if you’re leaving from Kasama, get to the station at 12:45am, but be prepared to sit there until possibly 3am or 4am. The Express train is newer so its also more likely that the fans and outlets will work on the train, but with all land travel, don’t expect anything. Bring batter chargers for your phone, and tank tops to stay cool. When I took the express in October first class was 236 Zambian Kwacha and second class was 188 Zambian Kwacha. SUPER cheap for a few days on a train. Highly recommend first class. I’ve ridden second class too, and while you get a bed, there are six in the cabin and it is like laying in a coffin. First class is 4 beds per room, with more storage space, and less smelly.

The Ordinary train leaves Kapiri on Fridays, reaches Kasama at around 4-7am on Saturday, and gets to Dar es Salaam on Monday. This train is usually more late than the Express as regards to the online time table. I suggest booking a hotel room for Monday in Dar just in case, but there’s a chance you won’t get into the city until early Tuesday morning. First class is 197 Zambian Kwacha.

Along the way you’ll get beautiful views of the Zambian and Tanzanian countryside. Truly breathtaking. I was sad when it was dark because I couldn’t see the views. In Tanzania toward the end of the ride you go through a National Park, and if you’re lucky enough to go through during the day time you might see some animals.

As far as food, I suggest bringing a bag of snacks and water on the train with you, but you can always buy meals on the train. The food is actually pretty decent. But you need cash. On the Zambian side you need Kwacha and on the Tanzanian side you need shillings. No exception. At the border, the staff, currency, and food, all change and if you don’t have shillings after crossing the border, you’re not getting any food. Luckily there will be money exchange people at the border, but I can assure you they won’t give you a fair exchange rate. But get enough for food on the train, and a taxi ride in Dar to an ATM.

So VISA! At the border the train will stop at a border patrol place on each side. So if you’re going from Zambia to Tanzania, the train will stop in Zambia, and officers will get on and go cabin to cabin and check passports and visas and stamp that you are leaving the country. Then the train will go another hundred feet and stop again. TZ officers will get on and check passports, ask you to fill out visa paperwork, ask for the visa fee, which for TZ is $100 USD that you have to have exact on, and some officers even made a fuss about the bills being newer than 2011, so make sure that is all prepared BEFORE you get on the train. They threatened to throw my friend off the train because she had an $100 bill from 2009. If everything is in order they will stamp your passport and you’ll be good to go. There will also be people going around on the train for people to exchange money, and to buy SIM cards (for you phone) and talk time (minutes). I would buy a SIM card and a talk time just for emergencies for the remainder of your ride, but I wouldn’t put a lot of money on the card, and buy a new one when you get to Dar from an authorized dealer. The card I bought, as well as the Tanzanian lady in the car with me bought, both started stealing our talk time as soon as we entered it. Obviously the card was being double sold so someone could take our money. Before buying a SIM card make sure it doesn’t look like its been used before, i.e. the card is punched out of the holder, or theres strange writing all over it.

Feel free to message me, or check out their website here if you still have questions. Like I said, I absolutely recommend taking the train if you have time. The adventure of it was just as exciting as most of my trip.

Cheetah Experience

On March 11, 2018March 11, 2018 By CheetahTravelsIn south africaLeave a comment

I volunteered at Cheetah Experience Bloemfontein in October 2017 for a few weeks and it was one of the best experiences of my life. They offer day tours, day volunteering (for locals) and weekly volunteering for international guests. It is a pay-to-volunteer program but is relatively cheap compared to other programs I’ve seen out there. It includes housing, some food, transport, and a wealth of knowledge and interactions with the animals. The staff at Cheetah Experience are extremely caring, and dedicated towards the well being of the animals which includes cheetahs, leopards, lions, a tiger, caracals, servals, wildcats, meerkats, and wolves. The tours that are given include a ton of education about the animals, conservation, and Cheetah Experience’s efforts to help the endangered species that live there. Volunteering includes training before interacting with any animals. While at Cheetah Experience you get to help feed the animals, give tours, create enrichment projects, and clean the enclosures. There is some hard work involved, but also plenty of downtime for animal interactions. Depending on the animals, you can even have a sleepover with some of them. I had a sleepover with three cheetah cubs and cuddling with the giant cats, and waking up to the African sunrise (and them licking my face) was truly magical. I will 100% go back if I get the chance. They also just opened up another location outside of Cape Town.

To learn more visit their website at CheetahExperience.com

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Georgies Lodge

On December 20, 2017December 20, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn Zambia1 Comment

Georgies is an awesome lodge/restaurant for a getaway. It’s quiet, and along a different part of Mutanda Falls than what is normally seen. It has beautiful views, especially the sunsets. The restaurant/bar and deck area overlooks the falls. It had a nice variety of food that tasted great, and service was fast and friendly. The whole grounds are filled with different colored roses so it smells heavenly. I didn’t use the pool but it looked clean, and the kids that were in it looked like they were having a blast. There was also a giant building in the back that looked like it could be used for weddings, or a big conference. They have kayaks that you could rent out, although if you’re staying the night it’s free, and we were told you could swim but it’s at your own risk. The water was pretty cold that day so we opted out. The rooms/chalets ranged from 500-750kwa. I stayed in a 550kwa chalet overlooking the falls with a porch, grill, hot shower, tea kettle and air conditioning. Georgie herself runs the place. She is an amazingly sweet, and dedicated woman. She even offered to pick us up and drop us off at the roadside before and after our stay which helped so much. We just needed to work around her schedule a bit which was no problem for us otherwise she offered to book us a taxi from town for 150kwa. We opted just to hitch hike to and from Georgies turnoff, which was pretty easy as it is a main road. It should not be that expensive. I stayed there one of my last weeks in Zambia and really wish I found out about Georgies sooner.

Georgies Bar and Grill Facebook Page

Georgies is the pink pin on the map. If you are coming from Solwezi you will go over the bridge, and straight at Mutanda. If you’re hitching you can either get dropped at Mutanda, or shortly past it is the turnoff to Georgies, I believe there is a sign.

Gorge Swing

On October 29, 2017October 29, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn Uncategorized, ZambiaLeave a comment

I didn’t do the gorge swing myself but two of my friends did and I went along to take photos. There are a number of companies that do swings, ziplines, and bungee jumping along the gorges. We arranged ours through the hostel we were staying at (Fawlty Towers). We were picked up from our lodge and brought to the gorge. My two friends decided to go tandum. If you’re willing to do this or bungee jumping I have SO much respect for you it looks terrifying. They were instructed on all the technical details, strapped in, and fell backwards off the cliff. It was so cool to watch! You get to see beautiful views over the gorge. They swung back and forth about five times and then were lowered into the jungle below where someone was waiting for them, and then they hiked back up to the top, it took about 30 minutes. They absolutely loved it! I think I’ll take their word for it. If you’re a thrill seeker you should definitely put this on your list.

https://zambeziecoadventures.com

Victoria Falls

On October 28, 2017October 28, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn ZambiaLeave a comment

Victoria Falls is the number one must see if you come to Zambia. It is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Entering the park on the Zambian side is about 7 kwacha for locals and about $10-20 for foreigners. There are curio shops, and little cafés right inside the entrance. As you’re walking through the park there are three trails… well four really. One goes up by the river before the falls, depending on the time of year is how far this trail goes. The main trail goes right in front of the falls, during high season you get SOAKED. Do not bring phones or electronics on this path, my friend lost his new iphone this way. They also sell rain coats and other bags to wear to stay dry but I think its such an amazing experience to just get soaked by the falls and to feel the mist hitting you. But I realize that experience is not for everyone. This path also leads to a bridge right in front of the falls, walk slowly as it is slippery when wet. It leads to an island/mountain/hill where you can get views of the Zimbabwe side of the falls, and the walkways on the Zimbabwe side. The second trail is more of a hike. It goes straight down into the first gorge to what is called the boiling point. From the bottom you can see where all the water from the falls comes together to push through a small opening. Seeing the strength of the water is truly incredible. Hiking this trail takes about 40 minutes each way. Bring water, and take breaks if needed. The third trail goes along the back of the gorge for more of a distance view of the falls. You also get a nice view of the bridge here, the one the first trail goes over, as well as the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Beware, we got to the end of the trail and there were men reaching through the fence trying to sell us bracelets, and to get us to come on a tour, it was a little creepy, so we just walked away. Another warning, on the boiling pot trail, and the last trail I discussed there are a lot of monkeys (baboons? Some sort of primate). They are known for steaking things from tourists, they’re definitely not afraid of people. DO NOT bring shop rite bags on the trail! The monkeys know that they contain food and they will be stolen from you. Hold on to your passport and wallet well when on this trail. The trails here are also not like those in America where there is a guard rail to keep you from falling off the edge of a cliff. You will fall off if you get to close to the edge and slip. I was trying to get a picture near the edge and slipped on the loose gravel and realized how easily I could have slid farther. Be careful and use common sense. The falls are highest in March-June, and lowest in October-January. High or low it is still incredible to see, it’s one of the 7 natural wonders of the earth and the pride of Zambia.

Eastern – South Luangwa Park

On September 13, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn ZambiaLeave a comment

South Luangwa National Park was my first safari I’ve ever been on. We got a Peace Corps discount and stayed at Croc Valley in the dorms. It was a real nice place. The rooves were thatched, and it had a cool insaka (thatched shelter) you can hang out in. The lodge was right on the river, and you can hear the hippos at night. We got in late but the place had food ready for us in anticipation of our arrival. The food was so good! Three courses! Definitely more than we were picturing. The next morning we woke early and did a morning game drive. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras, hyenas, and hippos. In our evening game drive we saw the same, and even spotted a leopard! It got so close to our car. I felt a little uncomfortable though because there were about 5 cars following the leopard around with high beams on all trying to get a look. The leopard seemed a little scared. All in all though I recommend Croc Valley. South Luangwa is a beautiful park FILLED with animals.

Lake Tanganyika

On September 11, 2017September 11, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn ZambiaLeave a comment

I don’t have too much useful things to say about Lake Tanganyika. It’s easy enough to hitch to Mpulungu, the town that lays next to the lake. Or you can take a bus, but we started by the side of the Kasama-Mbala Road. They dropped us at the turnoff, one road goes to Mbala, the other to Mpulungu. That wasn’t too hard to find another hitch the rest of the way to Mpulungu. It’s a nice town. I heard the fish market was pretty big but I didn’t see it. I took a b-line to an ice cream place. We stayed at a lodge I will talk about in the lodges section of Zambia, that was right across from the lake and a bar. We went to the lake-side bar to hang out and get dinner. It had beautiful views, although you cant swim because there’s crocs. We ended up staying at an school run by the Dutch across the lake called Eventure, because they knew some friends of ours. It’s a really cool place, not a place for vacation though. They had volunteers working there that seemed busy and I felt like we were just mooching off their space. I would check out Luke’s beach if you’re looking for a place to go. I’ve never been there but I’ve had a lot of friends who have, and I know Luke. It’s a nice quiet place on the water where you can set up tents, bring your own food to cook because I’m not sure if they sell food there. And I understand it’s a nice hike down to the water. So maybe not for someone looking for a nice, fancy, lake, vacation, but good for backpackers looking for an adventure and experience and somewhere to swim and hang out on a beach.

Chishimba Falls

On September 10, 2017September 10, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn ZambiaLeave a comment

If you’re in Kasama I would definitely try to reserve a day for a day trip, or even a camping overnight trip to Chishimba falls. It’s not too expensive to get in, maybe $10 for non residents, I’m not quite positive as I got in for 8kwa on a work permit. There’s three falls. When you first enter is the smallest fall, there is a picnic area, a swimming area, people selling curios, and a place to order food and beers. You can also bring food and charcoal and use the grills. Then there’s a short hike to the upper falls and a little longer hike to the main lower falls. The lower falls are a beautiful site no matter the time of year. During dry season you can swim at the top of the falls (at your own risk) but I wouldn’t recommend swimming there during rain season, you’ll get swept off the edge and there’s no coming back. The falls are tall and you can stand at the edge and see for miles into the valley. If you’re interested in camping I don’t think its more than $20 for non residents. Bring your own tents and sleeping bags. There is an insaka/shelteroverlooking the lower falls on the edge of the cliff, try to snag that spot if you can. Its unbelievable falling asleep under the galaxies and hearing the roar of the fall all night. The only thing is the bathroom is back at the entrance near the bar so try to go before it gets dark, and hold it til light in the morning. It’s safe, but not fun to hike all the way back in the dark, and its not nice to go number 2 in a public space. Really the only way to get to the falls is with a taxi which is a bummer. So if you can try to find other people to share it with. I guess you can try hitching, you’ll be able to find a ride out of town easy enough, but finding someone going from the turn off to the falls might take a while, and it would be a long walk.

Mutanda Falls

On September 7, 2017September 7, 2017 By CheetahTravelsIn ZambiaLeave a comment

A nice day trip from Solwezi is going swimming at Mutanda Falls. You can get to Mutanda Lodge (not Mutanda Nature Lodge), either by hitching out of Solwezi (best place to start is after Chowama market), or taking a taxi if you have money or can split it with people. At the Lodge there is a place to swim in the water, you’ll need to pay about 20kwa to be allowed to do so, or hang out in the nsakas by the water. Keep in mind that as rain season starts to pick up the water might be too strong to swim in. Rain season starts in October and goes until about April. I would think August/September would be the best time, although I went in April/May and it was pretty good. They also sell food at the lodge but I can’t attest to how good it is. Mutanda Falls isn’t very big compared to other falls in Zambia but its still a nice and relaxing outing nonetheless.

Mutanda Lodge is the yellow pin in the map below, the orange road going of the top of the picture goes to Solwezi.

Cheetah Travels

Tag: adventure